How Can I Manage an Asbestos Problem?  If the asbestos material is in good shape and will not be disturbed, do nothing! If it is a problem, there are two types of corrections: repair and removal.
Repair usually involves either sealing or covering asbestos material.

• Sealing (encapsulation) involves treating the material with a sealant that either binds the asbestos fibers together or coats the material so fibers are not released. Pipe, furnace and boiler insulation can sometimes be repaired this way. This should be done only by a professional trained to handle asbestos safely.
• Covering (enclosure) involves placing something over or around the material that contains asbestos to prevent release of fibers. Exposed insulated piping may be covered with a protective wrap or jacket.

With any type of repair, the asbestos remains in place. Repair is usually cheaper than removal, but it may make later removal of asbestos, if necessary, more difficult and costly. Repairs can either be major or minor.

 Asbestos Do’s and Don’ts for the Homeowner:

• Do keep activities to a minimum in any areas having damaged material that may contain asbestos.
• Do take every precaution to avoid damaging asbestos material.
• Do have removal and major repair done by people trained and qualified in handling asbestos. It is highly recommended that sampling and minor repair also be done by asbestos professionals.
• Don’t dust, sweep, or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos.
• Don’t saw, sand, scrape, or drill holes in asbestos materials.
• Don’t use abrasive pads or brushes on power strippers to strip wax from asbestos flooring. Never use a power stripper on a dry floor.
• Don’t sand or try to level asbestos flooring or its backing. When asbestos flooring needs replacing, install new floor covering over it, if possible.
• Don’t track material that could contain asbestos through the house. If you cannot avoid walking through the area, have it cleaned with a wet mop. If the material is from a damaged area, or if a large area must be cleaned, call an asbestos professional.

Major repairs must be done only by a professional trained in methods for safely handling asbestos.
Minor repairs should also be done by professionals since there is always a risk of exposure to fibers when asbestos is disturbed.
Doing minor repairs yourself is not recommended since improper handling of asbestos materials can create a hazard where none existed.
Removal is usually the most expensive method and, unless required by state or local regulations, should be the last option considered in most situations. This is because removal poses the greatest risk of fiber release. However, removal may be required when remodeling or making major changes to your home that will disturb asbestos material. Also, removal may be called for if asbestos material is damaged extensively and cannot be otherwise repaired. Removal is complex and must be done only by a contractor with special training. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family.

Asbestos Professionals: Who Are They and What Can They Do?  Asbestos professionals are trained in handling asbestos material. The type of professional will depend on the type of product and what needs to be done to correct the problem. You may hire a general asbestos contractor or, in some cases, a professional trained to handle specific products containing asbestos.
Asbestos professionals can conduct home inspections, take samples of suspected material, assess its condition, and advise about what corrections are needed and who is qualified to make these corrections. Once again, material in good condition need not be sampled unless it is likely to be disturbed. Professional correction or abatement contractors repair or remove asbestos materials.

Click here for more information on Asbestos and here for more information on Inspecting your Home for Asbestos.

If, at any time, you are concerned about your home and would like an Asbestos Inspection done by Home Inspection Professionals, please contact us anytime at 1-800-HIP-3200 or click here to Request an Inspection via the web.

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 Can Asbestos Affect My Health?  From studies, it has been found that breathing high levels of asbestos fibers can lead to an increased risk of:

• lung cancer;
• mesothelioma, a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity; and
• Asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue.

The risk of lung cancer and mesothelioma increases with the number of fibers inhaled. The risk of lung cancer from inhaling asbestos fibers is also greater if you smoke. People who get asbestosis have usually been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time. The symptoms of these diseases do not usually appear until about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure to asbestos.

Most people exposed to small amounts of asbestos, as we all are in our daily lives, do not develop these health problems. However, if disturbed, asbestos material may release asbestos fibers, which can be inhaled into the lungs. The fibers can remain there for a long time, increasing the risk of disease. Asbestos material that would crumble easily if handled, or that has been sawed, scraped, or sanded into a powder, is more likely to create a health hazard.

Click here for more information on Inspecting your Home for Asbestos and here for What to Do If You Find Asbestos in your Home.

If, at any time, you are concerned about your home and would like an Asbestos Inspection done by Home Inspection Professionals, please contact us anytime at 1-800-HIP-3200 or click here to Request an Inspection via the web.

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• STEAM PIPES, BOILERS, and FURNACE DUCTS insulated with an asbestos blanket or asbestos paper tape. These materials may release asbestos fibers if damaged, repaired, or removed improperly.
• RESILIENT FLOOR TILES (vinyl asbestos, asphalt, and rubber), the backing on VINYL SHEET FLOORING, and ADHESIVES used for installing floor tile. Sanding tiles can release fibers. So may scraping or sanding the backing of sheet flooring during removal.
• CEMENT SHEET, MILLBOARD, and PAPER used as insulation around furnaces and woodburning stoves. Repairing or removing appliances may release asbestos fibers. So may cutting, tearing, sanding, drilling or sawing insulation.
• DOOR GASKETS in furnaces, wood stoves, and coal stoves. Worn seals can release asbestos fibers during use.
• SOUNDPROOFING OR DECORATIVE MATERIAL sprayed on walls and ceilings. Loose, crumbly, or water-damaged material may release fibers. So will sanding, drilling or scraping the material.
• PATCHING AND JOINT COMPOUNDS for walls and ceilings, and TEXTURED PAINTS. Sanding, scraping, or drilling these surfaces may release asbestos.
• ASBESTOS CEMENT ROOFING, SHINGLES, and SIDING. These products are not likely to release asbestos fibers unless sawed, drilled or cut.
• ARTIFICIAL ASHES AND EMBERS sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces. Also, other older household products such as FIREPROOF GLOVES, STOVE-TOP PADS, IRONING BOARD COVERS, and certain HAIRDRYERS.
• AUTOMOBILE BRAKE PADS AND LININGS, CLUTCH FACINGS, and GASKETS.

 Where Can I Find Asbestos Hazards in My Home?

• Some roofing and siding shingles are made of asbestos cement.
• Houses built between 1930 and 1950 may have asbestos as insulation.
• Attic and wall insulation produced using vermiculite ore, particularly ore that originated from a Libby, Montana mine, may contain asbestos fibers. Vermiculite was mined in Libby, Montana between 1923 and 1990. Prior to its close in 1990, much of the world’s supply of vermiculite came from the Libby mine. This mine had a natural deposit of asbestos which resulted in the vermiculite being contaminated with asbestos.
• Asbestos may be present in textured paint and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use was banned in 1977.
• Artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos.
• Older products such as stove-top pads may have some asbestos compounds.
• Walls and floors around woodburning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper, millboard, or cement sheets.
• Asbestos is found in some vinyl floor tiles and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and adhesives.
• Hot water and steam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material or covered with an asbestos blanket or tape.
• Oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.

How Can I Identify Materials that Contain Asbestos?  You can’t tell whether a material contains asbestos simply by looking at it, unless it is labeled. If in doubt, treat the material as if it contains asbestos or have it sampled and analyzed by a qualified professional. A professional should take samples for analysis, since a professional knows what to look for, and because there may be an increased health risk if fibers are released. In fact, if done incorrectly, sampling can be more hazardous than leaving the material alone. Taking samples yourself is not recommended. Material that is in good condition and will not be disturbed (by remodeling, for example) should be left alone. Only material that is damaged or will be disturbed should be sampled.

Click here for more information on Asbestos and here for What to Do If You Find Asbestos in your Home.

If, at any time, you are concerned about your home and would like an Asbestos Inspection done by Home Inspection Professionals, please contact us anytime at 1-800-HIP-3200 or click here to Request an Inspection via the web.

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Over time the value of your home appreciates, so you should treat it with as much care as possible. Homes change and move over the seasons. After the winter everything from the roof to your sump pump will need to be examined. Spring is the best time to give our home the “tune- up” it needs.

Here is a checklist to help you target the areas that need maintenance so you can get those chores done quickly. Following these simple tips will get you outside and in that warm spring sunshine in no time.

• Inspect brickwork and stucco. Check for chipping, deteriorated mortar and unsightly deposits.

- Spalling is a chipping or popping away of a brick’s face, leaving the brick’s interior susceptible to moisture and crumbling. Any deteriorated mortar should be assessed immediately before more damage occurs.

- Efflorescence is a plaguing of the brick resulting in unsightly white deposits caused by soluble salts left behind during water evaporation. If efflorescence is found, removal is best recommended by dry brushing in warm dry weather.

- If you discover water penetration in the brick, consider sealing the brick surface with an appropriate sealant.

• Replace rotting siding and trim; paint as needed. Hire a professional to tackle siding maintenance.

- Brighten up your home with a good power washing. This will give your home a fresh look and may also show damaged areas that were hidden behind the grime of winter weather.

- If painting is needed, be sure to tackle the whole project. Don’t treat sections and move on. Leaving  any wood exposed could lead to the surface rotting. Make sure the whole surface is done to ensure proper resurfacing and color consistency to your home. Be sure to sand the surface and prime any bare wood before painting with a high quality  product.

• Clean gutters and downspouts. Multiple freezes and thaws can result in sags and dips.

- Make sure gutters and downspouts direct water away from the home. improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. They should point at least two to two and a half feet away from any foundation wall.

- Check that they are flush to the roof with no sags or dips.

- If you live in a two story home, a professional cleaning is recommended. Do-it-yourselfers will be safer cleaning a ranch style home.

- Consider installing gutter guards to protect them from environmental debris.

• Inspect your roof. Check for damaged shingles, which can make your roof susceptible to leaks.

- Shingles that curl up (turn up) and claw (turn down) can make your roof inefficient and susceptible to leaks.

- Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced.

- Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.

- Pooling or ponds of water that fail to drain from flat roofs may indicate low areas of inadequate drainage.

- Call a minimum of three roofers before committing to one for repairs. You will educate yourself in the process and end up with a better deal in the end.

• Get a chimney check- up. Hire a pro that can quickly check for cracks or leaks.

- Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep. This includes any active or decorative chimney.

- A professional should also check the chimney flue and cap for cracks or leaking.

• Prune landscaping and create good drainage. Maintain your plants and shrubs to prevent soil erosion.

- Landscaping helps against soil erosion, but should be planted to form a negative grade, which means wiater will flow away from the house.

- Trim overgrown trees and hedges away from your home to discourage the growth of mildew and moisture. Branches should be a minimum of seven feet away from the exterior of your home to prolong the life of your siding and roof.

- Remove out of control vines,as they can help crack siding and allow moisture and pests entry into your home.

- Check for low areas in the yard or next to the foundation. If any are present they should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage.

• Give concrete a little TLC. Seal your driveway, power wash your patio and have a professional service your pool.

- Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs, with the exception of pool decks, should drain away from the home’s foundation.

- Seal and inspect asphalt or concrete driveways. This is usually done in the fall, but spring is an ideal time to seal them.

- Power wash concrete patios; inspect decks for rotting wood and secure railings. Seal if necessary.

• Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage.  Take a peek at your home plumbing.

- Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely that the pipe inside  the home is damaged and will need to be replaced.

- Check any garden hoses for dry rot, replace if necessary.

- Anything dripping in your home is a bad sign. Check for leaking faucets or sweating pipes, clogged drains and faulty water drainage systems.

- Look at washing machine hoses for bulges, cracks or dampness.

- Check under the kitchen sink for leaks, and make note of wetness around the dishwasher.

- Check the shutoff valve at each plumbing fixture to make sure they are functioning properly. Know the location of all valves and what equipment and water lines they serve. Teach all  members of the household of their locations.

• Inspect the water heater.

- If you have a gas- fired water heater, make sure it is venting properly. Light a match next to the vent and wave it out (don’t blow it out). See if the smoke is pulled up into the vent. If it isn’t, have a professional inspect and repair it. Otherwise, carbon monoxide and other combustibles can build up in your home.

- Check around the base of your water heater for evidence of leaks. If your water heater is over five years old, it should be checked monthly for any leakage or rusting at the bottom. If evidence of a leakage or rust is found, the water heater should be replaced.

• Don’t overlook your attic. Check for proper ventilation, obstructions and leaks.

- Check your attic fro proper ventilation and birds nests.

- Look for obstructions over vents, damaged soffit panels, roof flashing leaks and wet spots on insulation.

- Be sure to wear long sleeves and gloves to protect yourself from insulation when checking the attic.

• Check out your heat/ air unit; change batteries in detectors. Change filters and clean the air purifier, but leave the rest to the pros.

- Have your ducts professionally cleaned. It will make your indoor air quality healthier and your furnace more efficient.

- Have a professional clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. An efficient air conditioner removes moisture and humidity from your home, which in excess, can damage its foundation.

- Change air filters on a monthly basis. Some are reusable and are supposed to be taken out, washed with a hose and re- inserted. A unit free of dust and dirt runs more efficiently, saving you time and money on your energy bill.

- Check the hose connections for leaks and any algae blockage. Make sure the drain pans are draining freely. If you suspect a problem, contact a certified technician.

- Clean the outside condensing unit screen of leaves.

- Listen for any unusual noises. This may be your first indication of a problem.

• Check your electrical system. Only a qualified electrician should remove the front panel cover.

- Look for burn marks at the main electrical panel; they can be a sign of arcing inside the panel, which can easily lead to a fire.

- Trip and reset the circuit breakers regularly.

- Remove any combustible materials such as paper boxes or flammable liquids from the area near the main electrical panel. Sparks caused by arching can ignite any material stored nearby.

- Check all electrical outlets for loose- fitting plugs. This is an indication of worn out receptacles, and should be replaced as they cause overheating and fires.

- Check all electrical outlet switches to be sure they are working properly. If there are any that are not working properly, have a qualified electrician determine the problem and fix it to avoid any fires inside the walls of your home.

- Install safety covers to help protect children from electrical shock.

- Unplug any appliance or tool that gives off even the slightest shock. Take to a qualified electrician or repair shop to be checked.

• Clean the kitchen exhaust hood and air filter.

- Keeping this clean of cooking grease will help keep a stovetop fire from spreading.

• Tackle those kitchen/ bathroom tiles.

- Pay attention to the grout between floor tiles in the bathroom or kitchen. A small crack in the grout or caulk can lead to an expensive repair in the future.

- Get in the habit of wiping down the shower walls and tub after each use to eliminate soap and scum build- up.

• Don’t forget about the sump pump.

- Make sure the sump pump is operating correctly. To ensure that it is always in proper working order, install a battery back up pump. If your sump pump does fail, you will not know until it is too late. If your sump pump fails, an alarm goes off, letting you know the backup is working. A few hundred dollars now will save you from thousands later, especially if you have a finished basement.

Preventive maintenance is crucial to the value of your home. Keep your place in tip- top shape with regular check- ups to save you the headache and cost of emergency repairs. It’s the inspections you make in between that really matter.

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What should I know about Radon?  It is a cancer causing radioactive gas. You cannot see radon and you cannot smell it or taste it, but it may be a problem in your home. This is because when you breathe air-containing radon, you increase your risk of getting lung cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer.

Should I test for Radon?  Yes; testing is the only way to find out about your home’s radon level. The EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing of all homes below the third floor for radon.

Can I fix a Radon problem?  Yes; if you find that you have high radon levels, there are ways to fix a radon problem. Even very high levels can be reduced to acceptable levels.

Should I be concerned with Radon when I’m in the process of buying a home?  Yes; the EPA recommends that you obtain the radon level in the home you are considering buying. An EPA publication “The Home Buyer’s and Seller’s Guide” is available through most State Health Departments or Regional EPA offices listed in your local phone book. EPA also recommends that you use a certified or state licensed radon tester to perform the test. If elevated levels are found it is recommended that these levels be reduced. In most cases, a professional can accomplish this at reasonable cost or homeowner installed mitigation system that adheres to the EPA’s approved methods for reduction of radon in a residential structure.

What are the Risk Factors associated with Radon?  The EPA, Surgeon General and The Center for Disease Control, have all agreed that continued exposure to Radon gas can cause lung cancer.  In fact, their position on the matter is that all homes should be tested for radon gas exposure, and all homes testing over 4 pCi/L should be fixed.

How Does Radon Enter the Home?  Typically the air pressure inside your home is lower than the pressure in the soil around your home’s foundation.  Due to this difference, your house acts like a vacuum, drawing radon gas in through foundation cracks and other openings of your home.  Radon may also be present in well water and can be released into the air in your home when water is used for showering and other household uses.

Potential Radon Home Entry Points:

• Cavities inside walls
• Cracks in solid floors
• Construction joints
• Cracks in walls
• Water supply
• Gaps in suspended floors
• Gaps around service pipes

If, at any time, you are concerned about your home and would like a Radon Inspection done by Home Inspection Professionals, please contact us anytime at 1-800-HIP-3200 or click here to Request an Inspection via the web.

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After the inspection, you will know more about the house, which will allow you to make decisions with confidence. 

If you already are a homeowner, a home inspection can identify problems in the making and suggest preventive measures that might help you avoid costly future repairs.

If you are planning to sell your home, a home inspection can give you the opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition, making it more valuable on the market.

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 To help protect and preserve your most valuable financial asset, here are some helpful tips while you ready your home for the upcoming winter months:

 EXTERIOR

1. Caulk – I always recommend caulking all or any open voids to seal out air, water, or any furry little creatures looking for a nice warm place to live for the winter (raccoons, squirrels and mice are common nuisances found in Oakland and Macomb counties.)  This includes sealing around windows and doors.  Make sure you also caulk around wires or pipes coming into the structure. 

2.  Roof - When performing roof inspections, check for loose, damaged, or missing shingles or shakes.  Check the soffits for signs of moisture build up.  Check the flashings around the chimney.  If cracks or splits are detected, use a roof tar or all weather caulk to seal the joints.  This should insure water tightness around the chimney.

3.  Gutters – Make sure the all the gutters are clean and the gutter joints are caulked.  Importance should be paid to the pitch of the gutters to insure water is running toward the downspouts.  Make sure the gutters are secured to the structure and no decayed wood is detected at the soffit or facia. 

 Along with the gutters discharging properly, it is important to keep the downspouts away from the foundation.  I recommend a minimum of 3 feet for gutter extensions, but the magic number is 5 feet.  I live in St. Clair Shores and we generally experience water penetration issues attributed to block walls in our basements.  At my house the downspouts extend 8-10 feet.  I put stakes at the end of my downspouts during the winter because when the snow covers them, letter carriers and solicitors step on them and crush them.

 4.   Foundations  - Foundations should be inspected during rainstorms for proper drainage away from the structure.  I tell all of my clients to raise up the grade and get the water away from the structure as much as possible.  Anytime I see a tar coating on the exterior basement wall, I will tell my clients that the grade is too low.  I recommend bringing in dirt to raise up the grade.  Slope should fall away from the foundation at a minimum of ½ inch per foot and extend at least 10 feet from the foundation.  I recommend bringing in dirt to raise up the grade.  (Free dirt is good dirt so be sure to research free options before purchasing.)

 * Be sure to check back for more home winterization tips, to be posted in the coming weeks…

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